Advanced Technique: Making Uneven Eyes Look Symmetrical

When I get cases that are different from the norm, I get excited!  I look at it as an opportunity to flex my creative muscle and really wow my Client.  In this case, my Client has uneven eyes. Because of this, she has to make minor tweaks in her makeup routine to make her eyes appear even.  

As you can see from this picture, I had an interesting task on my hands in styling this Client's eyes.  On the left, her eye appears to be smaller because she has a shorter eyelid.  That also creates the illusion that her left eye sits up higher than the right although it actually doesn't.  In a case like this, I can't style her eyes the same.  If I did, her left eye would look more open and almost "startled" in comparison to the right.  

The first step for me is to break the eye down into 3 sections.  The highest point, mid point and the lowest point. The highest point is where the longest lash will rest.  It's the area that's going to enhance the eye shape and the focal point when people are looking into my Client's eyes.  The lowest point is where I want my shortest lash to be. It's also the area that I don't want to stand out as much as the highest point.  The mid point is everything in between.  For this Client, I wanted the highest point to be in the center of the eyes and the lowest points to be on the inside and outside corners of her eyes.

Next, with the Client looking straight ahead at me I'll hold a lash up to each one of her eyes to figure out where that lash will sit on the eye and where it will stop on the lid.  If I have to use a cosmetic pencil to put a dot on the Clients lid, I will.  That mark helps me when the Client's eyes are closed to tell me where I need to change lengths. Some artists write this out on the eye pads but I prefer to mark the lids with the eyes opened.  

Finally, I'll begin lashing following the guide that I put in place.  In this case, I followed the same pattern on both eyes however on the left side, I went 2mm shorter with the lash design to create symmetry and so the lashes wouldn't sit up too high on the right.

I approached this Client's eyes calmly and wasn't afraid to take my time to make sure I mapped out her styling. The end result was beautiful and created the illusion of symmetry which made my Client happy.



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